Institution: Bubble Bobble Arcade Cabinet (Bartop)

Notwithstandin another cabinet build guide?

Fountainhead, I built my cabinet using, principally, the Galactic Starcade As a template, but I made a fewer changes as I went along that I feel, in hindsight, improve both the ease of fitting some parts, and better the aesthetic. I was also inspired by another Ripple Muck up Bartop on Instructables (which is also based in part on the Galactic Starcade)

Also, when reading through several guides prior to fashioning my own bartop, it was clear from both the articles and extraordinary of the questions asked, that whatsoever aspects need more entropy. A guide may say something care "...succeeding, fix the pavilion and you're willing to psychometric test" without actually fashioning any suggestion as to how to do IT. Much of this I figured out for myself, just I hope that IT might help others World Health Organization find themselves in a similar office.

I assume't intend this manoeuvre to personify a replacement for the many ones that are already available, rather it's a guide as to how I built mine, with a few hints and tips thrown in that Crataegus oxycantha help some multitude out.

Supplies

This is list of all the various components that I've bought in order to create the console.

12mm stiffly screw (Amazon) £1.50

1mm sealing tape (Amazon) £4.99

25mm bolt screw (Amazon) £1.82

32GB Micro SD (Amazon) £5.25

4 right smart adapter (Home Bargains) £3.99

4.3mm &ere; 5.3mm washers (Amazon) £3.90

4cm fan guard (eBay) £2.78

Buttons, sticks, interface (eBay) £44.99

Cam lock (Amazon) £2.80

D.C.-DC potential difference regulator (eBay) £3.46

Rooter extender cable (Amazon) £2.97

HDMI to DVI line (Amazon) £2.49

IEC major power point (Amazon) £1.29

LED lights (eBay) £4.99

M4 Flanged hex drive jazz (Amazon) £1.99

M5 Flanged hex drive shtu (Amazon) £3.95

Misc Screws (Aldi) £3.99

MDF (Local woodyard) £20.00

Monitor (eBay) £13.50

Paint (Sadolin Extra Indestructible woodstain - Ebony) (Amazon) £13.75

Perspex (marquee and bezel) and every artwork (Nuneaton Signs) £25.00

Primer (Aldi) £4.99

Raspberry Pi 3B+ (Virago) £34.00

Bir Pi Case (Amazon) £11.99

Raspberry Pi PSU (Amazon) £7.99

Speakers (gifted) £0.00

Terminal block (Wilco) £0.65

Thermal pillowcase fan (Amazon) £3.68

T-border (Arcade World) £13.86

TOTAL £246.56

Step 1: Sourcing Parts

Sourcing the MDF

I saved a local wood tho that sold MDF, and besides cut it to size. I planned out the dimensions for each board, knowing that the design for the cabinet was largely going to follow the designs already laid stunned by rolfebox, and added a couple of centimetres to each measurement to allow for trim angles. They first cut me a long panel to the correct (500mm) breadth, then skip each panel off that. This meant that I could be sure all the interior panels would be the Lapplander width.

Sourcing components

Reminder

From Reading some forum pages happening arcade sites, there was a highly advisable monitor- the HP LP2065. This is a 20" screen (in all probability active the largest you can get away with installing in this design without changing dialog box sizes), and has a match of advantages that hit IT a great choice. Initiative of all, it has a great resolution – patc cheaper and little monitors are in general 1024x768, this is 1600x1200. This makes things like the front end bill of fare look for really sharp, and vector games comparable Asteroids are great. The some other advantage is that it remembers its settings, including input selection and (this is the important one) power condition when the mains magnate is removed. In essence, information technology agency that at that place's nobelium take to wire upwardly some way of turning on the ride herd on to each one time the cabinet is turned on.

Controls

I found several options on eBay and Virago for people selling sets of sticks, buttons and encoders. The one I went with gave me the option to mix and match clitoris and stick colours. I already knew I wanted a House of cards Bobble theme, and so this allowed ME to have different, but complimentary colours for the different players. The sticks are Zippyy branded – apparently okay as a budget option, and the encoder is a Xin-Mo – not anyone I'd heard of before I started looking, but again it's considered okeh. I've no musical theme what brand the buttons are, they'ray just taxon.

Sound

I bought a cheap amplifier from Amazon. To see what variety of speaker size I required, I got a couple of scrap PC desktop speaker sets, the kind of thing that people secondhand back in the 90's, and unclothed them down. The speakers in these are very lowly power – just 2 Watt and 4 ohm. I did a test, playing several sounds through them using the amplifier that was inside the verbalizer, and they were surprisingly tasteless and clear anyway. As I didn't want to connect those speakers to the amp I'd salaried for (as it was rated capable 15W and so would probably blow the speakers), I took the decisiveness to try and use the amplifier I'd just pulled out of the speaker unmoving. I re-soldered the wires onto the PCB, as I had to cut them to get the speakers out, and calefactory-glued it to a piece of plywood so that I could possibly mount it inner the case.

My original plan was to have a small PC motherboard in the cabinet, however even with a slim PSU, it was going to cost a cockeyed fit. Once I started having problems with the front stop I was setting up in Windows, I swapped my plan to the Raspberry Pi.

Stair 2: ​Changes to the Original Design

The of import panels for the console are all supported on the measurements from the Galactic Starcade. The main thing I wanted to change was the fact that I wasn't keen connected the visibility of the Starcade side panels. I wanted something less angular, and more in safekeeping with the mold of the downloaded graphics, which was found (just as in the original Instructable for a Bubble Bobble machine) at hypertext transfer protocol://zonaarcade.forumcommunity.net/?t=45266890

Regarding the nontextual matter - I desirable my console to take in different colours for the two players, reflecting the different dragons from the game. I modified the right hand art to switch the order of the dragons, making the juicy one (Tail) the main 1. I couldn't witness a control board graphic that looked arsenic good equally the unrivaled I'd already seen on Instructables, so I contacted the author of that Instructable, and He was kind sufficiency to send me a copy of his design, which I've cleaned up and used for my own.

I also definite on a few other changes that I was going to make. Firstly, I ditched the thought of having the screen panel act every bit the supervise bezel. This was for 2 reasons – firstly because I wanted the screen to be As close to the front as affirmable as I'd hoped it would look after better, and secondly because it's hard to change the visibility of the surround if it looks more start on cardinal side or the new (put differently, if I ready-made a mistake either in the first cut of the hole, or with the mounting of the screen door). I'd aforethought to put perspex in front of the screen at any rate, and it's easier to modify a bezel mounted to perspex than information technology is to re-sculpt a hole in MDF.

The second commute was to how the control panel meets the rest of the cabinet. the original invention has an angle dig up the fathom of the screen incision and also the top of the curb panel, sol the control panel effectively slides into the country underneath the projection screen. I decided to keep the shield section as IT was, and instead baseball swing an angle at the back of the panel then that information technology rests against the bottom of the screen, without being permanently attached. In hindsight, this has made it much easier to remove and refit the venire when needed, thusly I'd advocate this modification.

Whole tone 3: Devising the Side Panels

In order to merge the two designs I used PhotoShop to take an precis of the art, which would form the visibility of the sides, and then overlaid this with the side plan of the internal panels. This allowed me to change the side instrument panel human body to suit my of necessity more. I shortened the depth of the lowest section by the control panel, A that part of the artwork is about 10cm deeper than the Starcade plan. I also changed the lines as they span by the screen to the marquee, and changed the tip over of the upper.

Formerly I was contented with the final lines, I printed out the plan in full sized, fixed the sheets together, and this hook-shaped the template for cold out the side panels. I traced around it twice onto the 18mm MDF so cut it with a reciprocating saw. At this point I wasn't too worried about getting all the rounded corners precise, I just cherished the rough shape to be correct. Formerly I'd got both face panels cut, I clamped them together and dog-tired an hour or so with 120 grit sandpaper, making sure that they were both the same and rounding sour the corners up by the marquee.

At united point I realised that I'd cut too practically from unrivalled panel at the lower front. I mixed a compounding of forest filler and MDF sawdust and bulked this back out, then sanded it down once IT had a accidental to waterless.

I wasn't sure how good to cut the slot for the t-moulding. I'd read in other chassis guides that getting a slot bite for a router could be expensive. Fortunately one of my cousins came to the rescue when he revealed he has a woodworking shed with a router table, and likewise had the appropriate part to puddle the expansion slot. That saved me a lot of time and worry, and gave a lovely clean slot all around the panels. He also offered assist with the incoming part of the build – lancinating down the rest of the panels and ablation any holes.

Step 4: Making the Unusual Panels

I was spoiled when it came to the other panels, as one of the other tools in my cousins' shop was a laser cutter. I appreciate that this is a luxury that non many people have get at to, but information technology did save me both fourth dimension and money.

Archetypical all the panels were trim down to the correct sizing, and to the angles specified in the Starcade instructions (other than the buns of the screen and the top of the board, arsenic mentioned above). And then the laser cutter was victimized to cut off the proctor aperture, the vertebral column impanel (raw out an access cover, a hole for the IEC mains connector, and a 28mm pickle for an arcade button to be used as a PC power switch) and finally the holes for the control panel and front panel, using a templet of the nontextual matter to confirm that everything was aright aligned.

A quick test of the panel fit, victimisation clamps to hold it all together, showed that everything looked about right, so we went ahead with a combination of screws, glue and battens and built the primary carapace.

Ill-trea 5: Building the Cabinet

I've seen guides where they position screws through the interior battens in to the panel, and piece this way in that respect are no holes to subsequently fill, it can be a fiddly task difficult to bring all the screws in honorable and tight. Although I was making more work for myself later, it was much easier to drill holes and countersinks from the extramural. Assembly took a pair off of hours, including drilling, screwing and gluing. With the intense panels in situ, the whole cabinet already felt rigid, and with no changes to make, I was so able to fill in all the screw holes and after sand it every down.

I took the decisiveness that any parts or panels that would need to be at times removed wouldn't bu be screwed straight into wood or MDF, as repeated tightening and removing of screws would chew away the wood. This directly refers to the control sticks, the control panel and the upmost dialog box of the pavilion. I bought much witch drive screws for this purpose – they get it on in real time into the Sir Henry Joseph Wood with a earthy thread, so have a fine-threaded screw hole finished the middle.

To make the holes for the sticks I held them in place from below, checked that they were central from above, then marked out the screw holes underneath the empanel. I could then use a pillar drill to make the necessary hole without breaking direct to the top surface. The hex screws tighten in put back with an allen key and defy the sticks solidly.

I victimized a similar access for the control panel and top division. This time I used a handheld drill to make a hole through the venire that's the right size for the screw, and victimisation that as a pilot hole in the batting below, on with a large drill bit, to make holes for the hex screws.

I wasn't sure how to fix down the front butt of the control panel. Unitary option I thought of was to have two sets of screws, 1 near the front and the different near the back. Rather, I experimented with putting a piece of scrap wood along the underside near the front of the control panel. This works really recovered, as IT notches against the inside of the front panel and because of the lean against of the panels it means the controls can't be pulled up. On with the change in cuts where the panel meets the riddle, it makes the control panel simple to drop in and lift out.

The past decisiveness I had to establish was speaker grilles. I'd decided to economic consumption the lightweight ovoid speakers I salvaged, but struggled to find an oval grille slender enough. The simply other option I could think of was to cut a series of holes into the lower marquee jury. I tested a few sized drill bits on a scrap piece of MDF, and Drew up a quick plan in MS Key. Taping the plan to the MDF and thrust each hole with a pin left a series of indentations in the panel that I drilled out. I was surprised how well this works, especially with the ultimate rouge on there – you don't rattling even notice them. Screwing the speakers above them, they also pass a louder sound that I was expecting from tiny 2W units. I drilled a hole in the back section of the marquee for cables to run through, and fitted the climb clips for the LED light.

Finally, it was clip to figure how to setting the monitor. Stripping cut down the varan is straightforward: Firstly, the bracket that holds it to the stand of necessity to constitute removed, followed by a screw in all recession. It's then a guinea pig of pulling off the front trim from the rear shell; the two halves clip together all the elbow room roughly. There's a small ribbon cable television service that connects the front buttons to the main circuit display panel, however the monitor works fine with this not connected, so there's no need to bring on out a way to mount any controls at heart the cabinet. After stripping the proctor, I took an old wooden shelf that I reduced dejected to a size that was the interior width of the cabinet, and also deep enough to allow a few centimetres in a higher place and to a lower place the climbing holes. I made 4 holes in the shelf and betrothed the monitor to it. With a combination of trial and wrongdoing and a bit of luck, I was able to hold the monitor in situation inside the storage locker with the shelf attached and mark the inside of the go with panels where the shelf met it. It was and then a case of adding battens either side that matched the markings and screwing the ledge to the battens. I hadn't in time permanently screwed the front screen MDF panel to the cabinet, and removing this before fixing the shelf in put away made that easier. Attributable the decision of having the monitor hole big enough to mount the monitor sluice with the jury instead of tooshie it, the monitor is installed and removed via the front of the storage locker, instead of behind. Again, it's a design decision that makes things much easier. To circularise the strain of the screws at the back of the shelf, I old the original monitor climb bracket as a spacer as it was already the unflawed shape for the job.

Step 6: Preparing to Test

Before I could fire it all up for the first meter, there were a some more steps that needed to follow completed. The virtually main one was setting up the Razz Pi. I decided to go with a pre-made image for testing purposes. I had a 32GB MicroSD card visible, so downloaded a highly recommended build. (I'm not sure whether Instructables allows golf links to that kind of thing, so I'll just say that I searched for "Damaso 32GB Net v4"). Writing the image resolute SD bill of fare took a while, so while that was gushing I installed the sticks and buttons and wired them to the encoder.

The Xin-Mo encoder is small, so I mounted information technology to the radica of the cabinet in the area beneath the control instrument panel. Each microswitch, be it a push button or a direction on the stick, has two connections. A direct wire from the encoder plank, and a ground connection that is daisy bound to one of the connectors on every switch. I found it easiest to connect the first ground connector to a switch near the centre of the instrument panel, then work along to one terminate and back once more. Another baksheesh I'd bid is to set down a piece of tape measure around the sheath of from each one of the non-ground wires, and label what information technology's meant to connect to (I.e. U, D, L, R, 1, 2... etc). Doing that, besides as making sure that when you relate the new end to the encoder you put them all the said way (I chose to go silver-edge forbidden), means that if you wealthy person to completely remove the connectors, it's a fairly simple task to lay out them back again. I also found it helped to label the foot of the stick with some way of characteristic which microswitch corresponds to which way, as IT's non always obvious.

The front buttons need to be wired up along with the main panel buttons, so formerly the main ones are all connected it may avail to have someone contain the panel close up while the additional front wiring is realised.

Like a sho comes the great part – testing that everything so far is working. At this stop complete the internal components were right dropped at bottom the console with none layout, but it gave a smashing opportunity to work sure that information technology all worked Eastern Samoa it should. The bats behind the buttons were lone through with finger tight, and some worked a bit lose, but otherwise this try made ME comfortable that it was loss to be a success.

After a couple of weeks of examination, I had to remove altogether the components and return key the cabinet to being an empty shell in order to move on to the adjacent represent

Step 7: Fusee and Painting

In front applying any primer to the locker, there were a a couple of screw holes that still required to live full and sanded go through. I then applied the primer victimisation a small foam roller for most of the panels, and a puny brush to get right into the corners. after allowing a span of days for drying, I gave it all a light sand and a second coat.

Note: The primer I used is H2O based. I'd read of some people having problems with water based primers happening MDF, causing the fibres to plump up, especially on the edges. I tested beforehand connected a scrap piece of music and saw nary such problems. I'd suggest testing advance anyway.

I considered using spray paint for the next phase angle, however information technology was belatedly autumn in England when I was at this point, and I'd need to sprayer extramural. As the weather made this impossible, I consulted someone that makes cabinets professionally, and he recommended the Sadolin wood discoloration. It's oil color based, and theoretically didn't need a primer, though when I tested it on some unprimed MDF I was glad I'd primed anyway. Applied with a small foam roller, it dries to a lovely black textured finishing, with a slight shine. One matter to be mindful of is that it necessarily to be applied in temperatures above 8c, and takes almost 24 hours to thirsty in 20c. A I was house painting in a indoor garden in November it was only when just above the token temperature, and I found the drying time between coats was closer to a week than a day. It was worth the wait though, every bit the ending really does look on good. A very soft sand with a fine newspaper was done betwixt coats, and I practical 3 coats in unconditioned to the back, top and front. As the sides were going to have artwork applied, I precisely stuck with a individualistic coat.

At this point I also turned my attention to the rear approach panel. I toyed with installing a fan into the cabinet. IT in all probability doesn't deman one at the moment with a Pi 3 inside, but if I swap IT at any channelize for something generating more heat, I might be grateful of the ventilation. The fan I chose is a PC case fan that has a thermal sensor on it. This has the reward that for temperatures on a lower floor mid-30's, the fan runs at a rattling broken speed and barely makes any resound. I used the biggest maw saw I had and cut a vent muddle for the fan, then painted the back control panel to match the stay of the cabinet. I too made two 32mm holes in the bottom of the case to draw some air through. They were thickspread with minor fan grilles, and aren't visible unless the cabinet is laid on its back edge.
I had to consider how to fix this panel as well. I had bought a piano hinge to use, but didn't possess the moral recessed screws. Alternatively I had the idea to place two vertical strips of MDF inside the cabinet opening to forbid the panel falling inwards, and would use a piece of MDF at the inside of the bottom of the panel, on with a River Cam lock at the top, to prevent it falling outwards. 'tween them, the panel should be bolted in place. I had to drill a 18mm jam near the top of the control board to tally the lock, and painted the vertical strips to match. Finally, adding some 1mm thick sealing tape all around the introductory, and an additive strip at the bottom of the panel, agency that it sits at the right to.

Step 8: Preparing the Electrics

During examination I had the power for everything going to an filename extension lead through the open back, and had individual power adaptors for each component (Raspberry Pi, monitor, amplifier and lighting). For the final examination build I take a power strip inside connected to a unvarying IEC connector at the stern. I cut the plug off an extension lead and crimped spade connectors to the wires in order to seize them to the IEC connective. I did realise that when I had power going through and through the connexion thither would possibly be exposed connectors with mains voltage, so at this time I inexpertly successful a boxwood surgical incision to screen up the rear of the connector and affixed it into place. I used a switched connection with a neon illuminator. IT's possible to wire them upward in several ways – either the neon is always unused, is on when the switch is on, or is on as soon as there is mains. I went with the middle option, and then that the neon works as a power light.

To supply the electromotive force for the amplifier, fan and LED, I had a snag. I wanted to leave one socket unloosen, however the LED and fan run from 12 volts, simply the amplifier needs 9V. This meant the amplifier would take upfield the remaining socket. I got around this by using an old laptop computer 12v PSU to drive the LED and rooter, and wiring in a DC-DC converter to maltreat the 12v down to 9v for the amplifier. Information technology just successful everything tidier than adding an extra PSU. I wired in a fan reference cable so that I could completely take unconscious the rear panel by disconnecting the devotee cable from the extender.

Footfall 9: Artwork and Moulding

The art was produced with an adhesive backing, and was easy to line sprouted with the correct edges of the panels. Information technology's not then sticky that it can't be bare-assed off again and Ra-positioned, so was easy enough to get into the flop place. Trimming the edges are done with a craft tongue, as is cutting out the holes for the buttons and sticks. The marquee was done Eastern Samoa a opposite print, where the image has the adhesive layer applied to the front instead of the back, and fixed to a piece of 2mm perspex.

For the bezel, I had to atomic number 75-fit the monitor and measure up the distance between the edges of the storage locker and the edge of the screen. My cousin so restricted the bezel that came with the artwork to take these sizes into business relationship, and also removed some of the characters that would have been cut off due to the shield size.

With the art in place, I attached the t-mounding. The size of the slot was large enough that I didn't need to pound IT into place, it's held tightly enough with ME pressing information technology every last into place past helping hand. For any tip that turns into the 'T' I victimised a Stanley tongue to polish of small sections of 'T' so that it doesn't buckle up. Evenly for parts that turn outwards aside any level I made a cut into the 'T' to enable the exterior of the mounding to bend easy.

Step 10: Trying on Everything Inside

I started with the speakers and light uncase, feeding the wires through the access code pickle and tacking them to the sidelong of the cabinet. I wanted to try and keep everything fairly clean, soh gave this much of thought. The cables are either cut to be as squat arsenic they can be, or are cable tied operating theater tacked to forbid messy wires everywhere. I used a popular glue gun to fix the extension to the bottom of the locker, and to too fix the laptop PSU next thereto.

The Raspberry Pi case I in use was chosen because information technology has a built-in mount. The only trouble I could envision was that IT would put the SD card very closemouthed to the surface it was mounted to, so fixing it to the side surgery bottom of the cabinet might make it difficult to get the SD card in Oregon taboo. For this reason, I mounted the case on to the monitor support surgical incision, as boon to the edge as possible, so that there's just enough space to get a card in or out without also much effort.

The amplifier is fixed to the sidelong panel then that the mass tin can represent well-adjusted by reaching inside.

Step 11: The Marquee

To fit the marquee to the cabinet I managed to fix some 500mm lengths of aluminum bent to a 'L' shape, with the short exclusive edge being just 2-3mm, and the yearner edge around 20mm. Three holes were drilled into the yearner edge, and then the whole 'L' is accustomed hold the marquee against the movement of the light box past victimization three screws into the outside of the marquee section

Step 12: Bezel

The final stage is to mount the bezel. I considered various ways to fix the bezel that would imply IT could be removed if I needed to get to the monitor. I was originally expecting the bezel to sportsmanlike sit above the control panel past a millimetre some which would mean it needed to be removed earlier I could lift out the board (as the panel effectively pivots into place along the forepart edge). I wondered about drilling it and using screws, or possibly magnets. The eventual solution is much simpler – a couple of pieces of doubling-sided Sellotape. IT has just enough grip to keep the Perspex against the screen, simply is easily to pull away if needed.

In one final stroke of destiny, the perspex is really about 3mm deeper than I expected, thusly the master panel rests against it. That's great for when I require to remove the panel again, nevertheless this immediately had cardinal problems – the first is that the bezel had a tendency to slowly slip down, and the endorsement publication was more serious. The butt of the control panel, rather than being fully supported aside the MDF behind, is now solely resting on a thin sliver of perspex. I looked around for some woods virtually 2mm thick that I could fix underneath the bezel, resolution the job of the perspex dropping, as well as giving the control dialog box something truehearted to rest against.

The solution for this was slightly unthought, merely I found that lollipop sticks were just the compensate heaviness, so I rigid a row of them under the monitor, resolution both issues in one go.

Whole tone 13: Tear Number

I did hit along few issues after completing the build. As I mentioned earlier, the hired hand tightened daft behind the buttons had a tendency to oeuvre lose. This time I'd fully tightened them with a spanner, yet still some of them got lose over clock. I didn't want to gamble over tightening them, so abstracted the ensure panel and applied a small dab of hot glue to each button between the thread and the nut. It should be enough to stop the nut working lose again, but canful be picked off fairly easily if I of all time need to remove a button again.

The other issue was the sticks themselves. One of the comments active the Zippyy sticks was the difficulty in sometimes striking diagonals. The more I played games, the more I detected the problem. Googling the symptoms, one spell of advice is to remove the restrictor plate from underneath the stick (the nonpareil that lets you deepen between a 2, 4 and 8-way stick). This did slightly improve the yield, but not sufficiency. There's a second home base subordinate the restrictor, and if I also removed that the bewilder was much better, however the plastic at the bottom of the stick itself is then detrition right away on the metal plate at the as of the unit, potentially wearing it away over time. My root to this was to use a Dremel to sand out some of the plastic on this s plate, devising it more than more rounded but still ensuring the bottom of the stick is rubbing plastic-plastic or else of plastic-metal. So far this fix has worked perfectly, and has made the sticks much to a greater extent pleasant to use.

EDIT: A few months ago I replaced the microswitches in the Zippyy sticks with Cherry branded ones. This has brought deuce advantages. Foremost, the sticks are now so a lot more quiet; the switches supplied with the Zippyy sticks are very "clicky", I didn't realise how such until I tried the Cherry tree ones. Second, it's reduced the overall amount of travel needed to register a movement from the stick. This has made gameplay more fluid and accurate, and also means the sticks feel more like the genuine Siemitsu sticks you detect in more arcade machines. In total this cost me just over £15 to serve some joysticks, including delivery.

Step 14: Enjoy

Once all that is done, the solely matter left to do is to delight the fruits of your hard work.

I desire this guide makes a good companion to the other build instructions that are knocked out there, and that some of the hints and tips have proved useful.

EDIT: I've uploaded the original graphics to a Google drive account, as I'm non sure whether it's impressible to get down it from the original reservoir any longer. It fire personify downloaded present - Original artwork files

EDIT 2: I've as wel added the final artwork to Google drive. This contains the modified side panels with the dinosaurs swapped connected one side, the final pavilion, cleaned up graphics for the control panel and the figurehead panel. At that place are no closing nontextual matter for the bezel, however they're largely based on the original download. - Final examination artwork

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